Measure your wrist, then match it to the size chart. Wrap a strip of paper snugly around your bare wrist just below the wrist bone, mark where it overlaps, and lay it flat against a ruler. That number is your wrist measurement — not the length of the bracelet, which is longer.

Our size guide will do the matching for you: choose your bead size, slide to your measurement, and it tells you which size to order and the exact range that piece adjusts across.

Each bracelet adjusts, but only within a range. It slides open to pass over your hand, then tightens onto your wrist — so the size you want is the one whose range your measurement falls inside.

If you land between two sizes, it’s best to order the smaller one for a more flush fit. A bracelet can always be worn looser, but it can't be made shorter than its beads.

If you land between two sizes, it’s best to order the smaller one for a more flush fit. A bracelet can always be worn looser, but it can't be made shorter than its beads.

More than you'd expect in one direction, and not at all in the other.

To get it on, it opens wide — roughly 1.75 inches past its worn size, which is plenty to clear your hand. That part is temporary. Once it's over your wrist you pull the two end beads and it draws back in.

As worn, each size covers about an inch and a quarter of wrist sizes. A Medium that closes down to 6.6 inches sits comfortably anywhere up to about 7.9 — snug at the bottom of that range, looser at the top.

What it can't do is go smaller than its beads. Every size has a minimum it won't tighten past, and that's the number listed on each product page. It's why picking the right size still matters even though the bracelet adjusts.

No problem - email us directly though our contact page prior to purchase to confirm we have sufficient beads in stock to accommodate your request.

Mostly it comes down to the look you want.

8mm is the everyday size. It sits close to the wrist, slides under a sleeve, and pairs easily with a watch. 10mm is the middle ground — substantial enough to notice, not so big it takes over. 12mm is a statement piece.

There's one thing beyond scale worth knowing: a bigger bead shows more of each stone. On a stone with real character — the matrix in African turquoise, the banding in jasper — 12mm lets you see the whole pattern in a single bead. At 8mm the same stone reads more as color than as pattern.

Two practical points:

Stacking. 8mm and 10mm stack comfortably. 12mm gets heavy and bulky stacked, so most people wear it on its own.

Your wrist. Larger beads sit further off the wrist, so they run slightly tighter at the same size. If your wrist is around 6 to 6.5 inches, 12mm may not have a clean fit — check the size guide before ordering, or go with 8mm or 10mm.

Absolutely! That is what they were designed for.

Because each bracelet tightens onto your wrist independently, a stack sits together without any one piece sliding around or riding up your arm.

A few things that make a stack work:

Two or three is the sweet spot for comfortably stacking 8mm and 10mm. Enough to look intentional, not so much that your wrist feels crowded. Although many collectors who wear these daily wear as many as 4-5 on each wrist. Totally up to you and your comfort level.

Mix bead sizes rather than matching them. An 8mm next to a 10mm reads as deliberate. Two of the same size in different stones can look like you couldn't decide.

12mm is usually better on its own, or paired with a single smaller bracelet. Two 12mm together get heavy and bulky.

Position the knots consistently. Tuck them all to the underside of your wrist and the stack looks clean from the top. Leave them scattered and that's what the eye goes to.

Order the same size for each one. Stacking doesn't change your size — every bracelet tightens to your wrist on its own, so they don't need to be progressively larger.

It stays where you set it. The knots grip by friction, so the bracelet only moves when you deliberately move it — pulling the end beads to tighten, or pulling the bracelet apart to open it. Normal wear doesn't do either.

A new bracelet is stiff. Opening and closing it takes a firm, deliberate pull for the first few wears, and that's how it should be — the knots are new and gripping hard. After a week or so the cord breaks in and it moves more easily. What changes is the effort, not the hold. It won't start slipping as it softens.

If it ever does drift looser, a quick pull on the end beads brings it back. That's the real advantage over an elastic bracelet: elastic relaxes permanently and eventually gets replaced, while a sliding knot can be re-tightened as long as you own it.

Three steps. Hold the beads on each side and pull apart — the bracelet opens wide. Slide it over your hand and onto your wrist. Then take an end bead in each hand and pull them apart until it sits snug.

That's it. No clasp to fasten and nothing to fiddle with. A new bracelet is stiff and takes a firm pull; after a few wears it moves easily.

Yes. The first two steps are easy one-handed — you're using your free hand to open it and slide it on.

Tightening is the part that seems to need two hands, and here's the trick: make a loose fist so one end bead is trapped against your palm, then pull the other bead firmly with your free hand. Your fist holds one side while you pull the other.

If you'd rather not bother, you can also tighten it before it's fully seated and just work it into place.

There's no elastic in these, so there's nothing to snap.

That's the failure most people have had with a beaded bracelet — elastic stretches out, goes baggy, and one day gives way and scatters beads across the floor. These are knotted onto cord instead. The knots grip by friction and can be re-tightened any time, so the bracelet doesn't have a wear-out point built into it the way an elastic one does.

Cord is not indestructible — it can be cut or abraded — but it won't fail on its own from normal wear.

First, ensure you have it opened to its maximum. The bracelet opens well past its worn size, and most of the time this is simply a matter of not having pulled it wide enough. Grip the beads on each side, not the cord, and pull firmly — a new bracelet is stiffer than you'd expect.

Tuck your thumb into your palm and make your hand as narrow as you can, then work it over the widest part — across the knuckles.

Don't force it. If it genuinely won't clear your hand at full width, it's the wrong size, and pushing will only stress the cord. Message us with your wrist measurement and we'll sort out an exchange.